Chichi

Of course I had to go "Chichi", short for Chichicastenango, a generally quiet highland town which hosts the most famous market in Guatemala and one of the largest in Central America. The market only takes place on Thursday and Sunday. I purposely waited until my daughter Lorca came to visit me during her spring break, so I could share this adventure with her. We were not disappointed! We took a 12-passenger shuttle from Panajachel on Sunday, March 8th around 8 in the morning and arrived in Chichi around 9:30. The market was exploding with hustlers, wares, colors, and sounds. Apparently, these sellers arrive in the dead of night before market day and set up their stalls in candlelight. Though we were anxious to dive into the tipica textiles and handicrafts (my personal mission was to buy painted wood-carved animal masks), we decided that we should visit the important sites beforehand. I had read that there was a sacred site called Pascual Abaj within a 20 minute hike on the outskirts of the city. When we asked a man for directions, he cautioned us that it may not wise to wander up there ourselves and "graciously" offered his services as an official guide. After we settled on a modest fee, our guide (who turned out to be excellent) took us on a rather rigorous jaunt up into the hills to Pascual Abaj. He explained that the Sunday rituals would be taking place when we arrived. At the site there were two curanderos (shamans), a woman and man, who offered their services to anyone who had special needs or requests. They repetitively performed rituals which involved incense, liquor-pouring, and incantations in front of the Idolo, a blackened pre-Columbian sculpture. Sometimes a chicken is sacrificed, but we were saved from that spectacle. As we stood there observing the shamans, two groups of young Guatemalans came to pay their respects. I asked Lorca if she wanted to take advantage of the shaman's services and ask for good grades this semester. For some reason, she didn't take my suggestion seriously.

Pascual Abaj

The guide led us down the fairly steep path into the town and then guided us up the steps of the famous church Santo Tomás on the southeast corner of the main plaza. Like other Catholic churches I have seen, Santo Tomás was the testament to a successful blending of Catholic and Maya belief systems. The church dating back to 1540 has wooden carved figures of Jesus and other saints as well as symbols of the Maya religion such as offerings of aguardiente liquor and symbolically colored candles.

Steps leading up to Santo Tomás Church

After absorbing the majestic atmosphere and relics within the church, we said goodbye to our guide and plunged into the exhilarating chaos of the market. As a haggler, Lorca was very timid in the beginning but with time and practice, she became more emboldened at bargaining and cajoling with the sellers. (She refined this skill later on in Panajachel where she made her last-ditch purchases).

Lorca with our guide at the Chichi Market

I did complete my mission and bought six exquisite masks at a bargain price of 50 dollars. Lorca was thrilled with her purchases which included two lovely embroidered belts. We found a patio restaurant for a quick bite before heading back with the same shuttle (with different passengers no less) to Pana. Chichicastenango (named after a flower) had definitely proven itself as one of the highlights of Lorca's visit as well as a permanent "must" for future visitors.

The market at Chichicastenango