Guatemalan Diaries

The Final Days of the Fulbright

2009-08-25T13:56:00.000-07:00

Presenting the new EFL curriculum at UVG in Guatemala City

From left to right: Jay Raman, Maria Marta Ramos,
I, Roberto Moreno, Helga Knapp, and Bani Sandoval

New desks for the Center funded by Fulbright

Voices for the listening part on the new
institutional proficiency test

Recording dialogues: I, Richard Morgan, and Josanne.

On May 28th, 2009, I gave a PowerPoint presentation of the new curriculum I developed for the EFL program at the Universidad Del Valle de Guatemala (UVG). The presentation was held in the conference room of the central campus in Guatemala City. Those who came included the Rector Roberto Moreno Godoy; the director of the UVG campus in Sololá; the director of Proesur, UVG campus in Santa Lucia Cotzumalguapa (in western Guatemala) and deans of the Centros de Idiomas on each campus. To everyone’s delight, Jay Raman, Cultural Affairs Officer at the U.S. Embassy, also attended. Just as I began the PowerPoint presentation, a huge rainstorm hit and I felt as if I was screaming in order to be heard over the raucous pounding of raindrops on the patio outside the conference room. Fortunately, the fury of the rainstorm subsided and I was able to assume a normal tone of voice. The presentation of the proposed curriculum lasted around 40 minutes and the discussion that followed was spirited. Both directors as well as the rector appeared to be satisfied with the new curriculum and open to its implementation at all three campuses. I emphasized that the curriculum was only a model and that they should feel free to tweak it after it has been put into practice. Jay Raman reiterated the Embassy’s desire to strengthen ties between Guatemalan and U.S. universities through faculty and student exchanges; he also encouraged directors of the English language programs at all campuses to request free instructional materials from the Embassy.

My Fulbright in Guatemala has been a truly significant, learning experience from both a professional and personal standpoint. I was once again challenged to re-examine my values and principles as a teacher and world citizen. I realize now-even more so-that teaching language is my calling. It is the way I can help people reach their goals and better their lives. I leave this country with a special appreciation and genuine love for its people and their very rich complex culture and history. These are the benefits I can pin down now; however, it will take years for me to fully understand and fathom the yields I have gained as a Fulbrighter in Guatemala.

I am greatly indebted to the J. William Fulbright Foreign Scholarship Board for selecting me and thus enabling me to have this profound, life-changing experience. I am also deeply grateful for the support given to me throughout my Fulbright by the wonderful folks at CIES, Carol Robles and Joseph Graff, Program Officers for the Western Hemisphere. I want to acknowledge Paul Leslie, Vice President of Academic Affairs at Greensboro College, for making arrangements for my leave of absence. I am deeply indebted to Maria Marta Ramos, director of the UVG-Sololá campus, for giving me the charge of creating a curriculum which proved to be one of the most exciting creative projects of my career. My transition to daily life and work would not have gone as smoothly as it did, if it were not for the tremendous help from Helga Knapp Baranyai, dean of the school’s Centro de Idiomas (CEI). Last but not least, I thank my American colleagues who quickly and effectively responded to my appeals for information and guidance throughout the process: Anne McCabe (Saint Louis University-Madrid), David Parsons (UNC-Greensboro), Debra O’Neal (Eastern Carolina University), Judith Graves (Guilford Technical Community College), Barbara Kosta (University of Arizona), and especially Bonnie Parsons (Greensboro College).

Inauguration of Educational Center in Tzununa

2009-05-25T05:33:00.000-07:00

For me, there isn’t much to do in Panajachel at night except to eat out at one of the many touristy restaurants whose menus range from typical Guatemalan dishes ($) to French gourmet ($$). There is however a restaurant called Solomon’s Porch that promotes itself as a cultural center. The owners organize a monthly program of live music, movies, and “Guatemala Lecture Series.” Once a month, local politicians, social activists, and retired academics are invited to give a talk with is then followed by a discussion. The two talks I have gone to were in English and the audience was 99% gringos (the remaining 1% were Guatemalan restaurant workers).

On Thursday, May 14^th I went to a talk entitled “Thoughts about Resignation on 2012: Guatemalan Perspectives” given by anthropologist and author Robert Hinshaw who has lived and done research in Guatemala since 1963 on change and continuity in Maya belief patterns. His current interest is climate change and its impact on Maya culture. This was the focus of his talk and an essay he wrote entitled “A Manifest of Resignation.” (For a copy of the essay, contact Robert Hinshaw at robhinshaw@msn.com.) At the end of the discussion, he invited the audience to an inauguration ceremony in Tzununa, one of the poorer, more isolated villages on the Lake. He explained that he and his wife had donated a piece of their property to an organization “Los Amigos de Santa Cruz” so that they could build an educational center for women and children from the village. I decided that that this was an opportunity I would not pass up and asked my friend Bernadette if she wanted to come with me.

From the shores to Tzununa (Volcano San Pedro to the left)

The following week on Wednesday, May 20^th, we took a boat over to Tzununa, “hummingbird of the water” in Kaqchikel. Due to its remoteness, inhabitants have been very shy toward foreigners; however, since the roadways have improved, more outsiders are coming in and buying up land to built vacation homes. The inhabitants produce oranges and lemons as their major crops. The trajes (traditional dress) the women wear are stunningly beautiful; their headdress is equally eye-catching.

Women waiting for the Inauguration to begin

Woman wearing a traditional huipil (blouse)

We arrived at the location of the inauguration at 9:00, the time it was supposed to begin, but of course, in Guatemala, everything begins much later. As we waited, I feasted my eyes on the gorgeously clad women trailing in with their children. The facial features of Maya women are striking; they have smooth coffee-colored complexions, pronounced cheekbones, and straight, refined noses.

When the group from Santa Cruz (two towns down on the Lake) arrived an hour later, the ceremony began. People who stood up to give their thanks spoke in Spanish to the foreign visitors and Kaqchikel to the locals. They expressed their gratitude to Robert Hinshaw for his donation of land as well as the founders and current members of Amigos de Santa Cruz who funded the project.

Inauguration Celebration

According to their website, Los Amigos was founded in 1998 by a group of expatriates living in Santa Cruz who, along with local community leaders, sought to empower women and children through education at the primary and secondary level. Public school in Guatemala costs money- not much but enough to prevent poor families from sending all of their children to school. If one child can go, it is the oldest boy. For this reason, very few women are literate and most young women have no future other than having and taking care of children. For this reason, the new educational center is focused on the education of women with regard to literacy, hygiene, nutrition, and job training. For more information about this organization and its achievements, go to: http://www.amigosdesantacruz.org/Amigos_de_Santa_Cruz/HOME.html

After the testimonials, Robert Hinshaw cut the ribbon symbolizing the official opening of the center. People lined up to sign the guestbook. After that, the women sat under the pavilion and had their first class on nutrition. Plates of fresh tamales were passed out at the end of the lesson.

Robert Hinshaw cutting the ribbon

The Guestbook

Attending their first class on nutrition

It was a very beautiful, touching event. In a country where there are rampant poverty, brutality, and tremendous disparity, events as these do provide glimmers of hope and possibility of change. For me, they are also a testament to the goodness of the human spirit which is so often lost or simply imperceptible.

On their way home

Quetzaltenango (Xela)

2009-05-10T03:55:00.000-07:00

Friends of mine invited me to drive to Quetzaltenango, the second most populated city in Guatemala located in the same named department. Quetzaltenango (Place of many Quetzals) got its name from the Spaniard Pedro de Alvarado after he defeated the great Quiché warrior Tecún Uman and destroyed the city around 1524. Before then, the town was named Xelajú which is Quiché for "under the ten," which presumably refers to the peaks surrounding the town. Locals never fully accepted the name imposed by the conquistadors and to this day always refer to the city by its Quiché name, calling it Xela for short (pronounced Shey-la).

We lucked out with the weather since it is now rainy season and most afternoons usher in dark clouds and heavy downpours. Furthermore, Xela is located in the mountains and known for its bitter cold climate, especially in the mornings. However, after a heavy rainstorm that evening, we awoke to a town illuminated by clear blue sky and radiant sunshine. After breakfast we took a stroll through the tranquil streets of the old part of town toward the stunning Parque Centroamérica. The main plaza has been touted as one of the most beautiful in Central America. It is a tribute to neo-classicist architecture dating to the city's rebuilding after the disastrous 1902 earthquake. On both ends, there is a line of lonely detached Greek columns which now function as street lamps.

Statue of former President Barrios Amongst the Greek Columns

Parque Centroamérica in Xela

Another statue at the Parque

Across from the Parque is the magnificent Pasaje Enriquez, a renovated arcade of bars, cybercafés, and restaurants, and now Xela's hottest spot. On the opposite side of the park is the Catedral del Espiritu Santo.

Pasaje Enriquez

Inside the Pasaje Enriquez

Inside the Catedral del Espiritu Santo

Xela surprised and delighted me with its clean streets and charming eclectic architecture. My friends also introduced me to their favorite restaurants and cafés whose interior decoration floored me with its opulence and originality.

The Facade of a Former Movie Theatre

Inside Café Bavaria

There is a lot of culture in Xela due to the high concentration of universities, private colleges, and overabundance of top-notch language schools. Matter-of-fact, my friend Bernadette, who is French Swiss, stopped by a recommended school, Proyecto Linguistico Quetzalteco de Espanol, and registered for a week of 5 hours of daily private instruction and a home-stay (which includes three meals a day) for only 200 dollars. The school also organizes activities for students to learn about current cultural and socio-political issues facing the country.

Bernadette Contemplating an Exhibition of Chair Designs
at the School of Architecture

A Chair Design called Las Bailarinas

Poster Commemorating the Anniversary of Che's Death
Inside the Proyecto Language School:
Che is still very much revered in Guatemala
and one can see his image everywhere.

We finished off our Xela excursion with a trek to the natural spring spa Fuentes Georginas, whose hot water is fueled by the Volcano Pico Zunil. There were plenty of locals there despite the shroud of heavy fog. The cleanliness of facility left a lot to be desired; nevertheless, while we soaked in the steaming hot springs surrounded by a very colorful odd mixture of half-clad patrons, I laughingly remarked to my friends that I felt as if I could be an extra in a Fellini movie.

On our way back through Xela toward Panajachel, we stopped at one of many vegetable stands along the highway. The land in the department of Quetzaltenango is very rich due to volcanic ash and much of the produce is transported to markets as far away as those in El Salvador.

One of the Many Vegetable Stands
Along the Interamericana Highway

Cebollas

Boy carrying heavy sack of produce:
Child labor is ubiquitous in Guatemala.

Cuaresma (Lent) in Antigua

2009-04-16T19:07:00.001-07:00

Boy in Procesion de Jesus Nazareno del Desamparo

Antigua is world famous for its celebrations during Lent and Semana Santa (the Holy Week). I was fortunate to catch a few processions during my time there with my daughter Lorca and with Barbara Kosta since both visits fell during Cuaresma (Lent) which constitutes the 40 days before Easter.

Workers feverishly trying to finish
whitewashing San Jose Cathedral in time for Semana Santa

Barbara and I were in Antigua on Thursday and Friday, April 2nd and 3rd. On Thursday we went to San Jose Cathedral at the Parque Central. Inside the church, we were awed by the special Easter arrangements and decorations. There were andas (wooden platforms with saints on the top) ready to be carried in processions. There was also an elaborately decorated alfombra (carpet) on the church floor which was made of painstakingly handstrewn brightly colored sawdust (with the aid of stencils). Around the alfombra were carefully arranged fruits and vegetables as offerings, a tradition stemming from Mayan culture. The fascinating aspect of Catholic religion in Guatemala is that it has embraced Mayan religious beliefs and traditions. This is palpable in Easter celebrations as well as church architecture. Much to Barbara's and my disbelief, the alfombra as well as the elaborate display were gone the next day. The ephemerality of the holy week artwork so carefully and beautifully executed reminded me very much of the Tibetan mandalas.

Alfrombra being created in front of the San Jose Cathedral by a tourism class

An anda inside the San Jose Cathedral

Part of the alfombra inside the church

Youth measuring the height of potential carriers for processions

The next day, Viernes de Dolores, we watched and followed the Procession de Jesus Nazareno del Desamparo at 3:00 in the afternoon throughout the city. It was an amazing unforgettable experience. Spearheading the procession was an anda carried by boys who could not have been older than six. The boys were dressed in the traditional purple robes and they trudged with their burden through the streets. Toward the end of procession (two hours later) their parents accompanied them. I overheard one mother say to her son, "Not much longer."

Children carriers during the Friday procession

During the Friday Procession

Boy swinging a vessel of burning incense in front of the Anda

Following the young people was an anda carried by teenaged boys. This anda was very heavy as one could note by the size and the expression of the boys hoisting it. Apparently andas can weigh as much as over a ton. The carriers stomped on the alfombras illustriously displayed on the street, destroying them totally. The anda was trailed by a band of brass and flute players as well as drummers. The music reminded one of funerals, very slow, mournful, and dignified. We thought the conductor of the band looked like a gypsy due to the type of hat he wore.

Bandleader

Teenaged boys carrying an anda and about to trample an alfombra

Boys carrying the Anda

During the procession, people gathered on the sidewalks to watch. Girls were dressed in virginal white dresses donning a postcard of a religion icon which signifies their parents contribution to a cofradia, a religious order. Some girls joined their brothers to show their solidarity.

Child watching on the sidelines

Sister keeping brother company

After the procession, Barbara and proceeded to the La Merced, no doubt one of the most spectacular churches in Antigua. Outside the church, there were throngs of vendors selling delicious delicacies as well as gorgeous bouquets of flowers and dried grains. Barbara was particularly struck by the aesthetically carved mangos on a stick.

La Merced

A woman selling Easter bouquets in front of La Merced

A woman selling mangos on a stick

Apart from the special events programmed for Semana Santa, we were struck by the spectacle of one of the surrounding volcanoes which rose above the city like an apparition. I was fortunate enough to capture its mystical appearance when we were walking on Santa Catalina, close to the arch. Antigua is no doubt one of Guatemala's jewels and being there during the Cuaresma made it even more special.

Barbara Kosta's Talk at UVG

2009-04-16T18:22:00.000-07:00

Presentation: Using Film to Teach English Language and Culture

Guest Speaker: Dr. Barbara Kosta, Professor of German at the University of Arizona

Location: Aula Virtual, Universidad del Valle-Altiplano

Time: April 1, 16:00-17:00

Barbara Kosta, one of my oldest dearest friends (our friendship dates back to 1973, our junior year in Munich ), came to visit me in Guatemala. She gave a very stimulating well-received talk at the Universidad del Valle (UVG) about using film to teach English language and culture. She is actually a full professor of German at the University of Arizona but because her specialization is in German film studies, she was able to apply her knowledge and teaching experience to an EFL setting. In her presentation, she showed participating English teachers how they can enhance cultural awareness as well as motivate students to practice all four skills with the aid of a film, in this case, "Night at the Museum," a 2006 American adventure comedy based on a 1993 children's book by Milan Trenc. All teachers from UVG attended the talk as well as the well-known local author Richard Morgan Szybist of the Lake Atitlan Reference Guide and Fables and Other Mayan Tales of Atitlan. Richard has a special connection to the University of Arizona because that is where he completed his graduate studies in Latin American affairs in 1992.

The North Carolina-Guatemala SIOP Workshop

2009-03-28T17:46:00.000-07:00

Today March 28th, 2009 was a milestone for the language centers at the Universidad del Valle's three campuses: UVG Central campus in Guatemala City, Proesur on the east coast, and my post, UVG-Altiplano. It was also an important landmark for Eastern Carolina University in Greenville, NC since it was the first time two faculty members, Debra O'Neal and Marjorie Ringler, had given an interactive four-hour SIOP workshop through a four way teleconference to university English and bilingual content teachers in Guatemala. SIOP (Sheltered Instruction Observation Protocol) is a model of instruction being promoted in K-12 classroom nationwide due to the rising population of children in the US whose first language is not English. Despite a few surmountable technological difficulties regarding audio at the beginning and during the presentation, the workshop was a great success! Our teachers at UVG-Altiplano were very pleased and impressed by the quality of content and delivery of the presentation, making the effort of getting up early on a Saturday worthwhile. Here is background information on how all of this evolved.

Knowing that I would be stationed for six months at a university in Guatemala, I invited friends and colleagues to come down and visit but at the same time offer professional development workshops to the English teaching faculty here. One person I contacted was Debra O'Neal, whom I have known for a few years through Carolina-TESOL. I know Deb loves to travel (just as an aside-she flies her own plane to conferences). Deb is also a dynamic presenter and experienced trainer in SIOP, a methodology that would be very pertinent to teacher trainers, content teachers of bilingual schools, and EFL teachers here in Guatemala. She couldn't work it out to come here personally, but she proposed that she instead give the workshop as a teleconference. Deb is very much at ease with technology and has had lots of experience with distance learning. So plans for this workshop in March already began rolling in January.

Debra O'Neal, Instructor in the College of Education,

the English Department and the Global Understanding Program at ECU, North Carolina

Deb also invited her colleague Marjorie Ringler, Assistant Professor of Education, to be a co-presenter. Marjorie also happens to be Colombian and bilingual. Because her research focuses on effective professional development that benefits principals, teachers, and English Language Learners (ELLs) in rural schools, Marjorie has had a lot of experience training administrators in SIOP.

Dr. Marjorie Ringler (ECU) during the workshop on the screen

The morning of the 28th, Helga, our new English program director, picked up me, Josanne, and another former UVG English teacher around 7:30 and we drove up to the university where we immediately began setting up for the workshop. Nine people came which was a bit disappointing since we had invited many teachers from the three bilingual schools in Panajachel. Nonetheless, the people who did come were very much engaged in the workshop.

An interesting twist in the planning of this workshop is that we did not know that the third campus, Central, in Guatemala City was joining us. Much to our amusement, we found out 30 minutes into the workshop that they were also participating. That's Guatemala for you! There are always surprises. The presenters very gracefully adjusted to their expanded audience.

Deb and Marjorie had to condense a three-day into a four-hour workshop and they succeeded. After they introduced key language acquisition theories that underlie SIOP (e.g., Krashen's hypotheses and a little of Chomsky of course) , they guided us through the SIOP model and corresponding hands-on activities. After each activity, they asked faculty at each campus to share their results. It was great fun!

UVG-Altiplano participants during an activity

During the wrap up, Deb and Marjorie asked if we had questions. All three campuses asked if they could have a copy of their Powerpoint. Central campus asked about the success rate of the approach and the presenters responded that it was a research-based methodology. They also reported positive results from their own research findings regarding the implementation of SIOP in rural schools in North Carolina. Spokespeople from each campus then thanked their American colleagues wholeheartedly for their effort and very informative workshop.

It was a very profound, enlightening experience. First of all, it opened the doors for more training workshops of this nature between American and Guatemalan campuses. Furthermore, the SIOP workshop telecasted at all three campuses brought the respective faculty closer to one another, which is one of the goals of the Universidad del Valle.

Thank you again, Debra O'Neal and Marjorie Ringler, for an inspiring, history-making workshop!

Santa Catarina Palopo

2009-03-26T18:47:00.001-07:00

Child selling trinkets in the streets of Santa Catarina

"Palopo" is a word that is tagged on to the names of two villages on Lake Atitlan: Santa Catalina Palopo and San Antonio Palopo. "Palopo" is derived from the Spanish word "palo" which means stick or tree. "Po" however is also from the Maya dialect Kaqchikel which means "amate," a type of native tree in the area.

Santa Catalina is a small town and its 3,000 inhabitants are almost entirely indigenous. The dress of inhabitants is extraordinary with rich blues (turquoise), purples, and greens that have a zigzag patten. The women wear striking headgear.

Women selling wares at the Festival

I had not been to Santa Catalina Palopo which is to the west of Panajachel. I had read an announcement on a tuk-tuk that there was a village festival taking place there on Saturday, March 21st. I asked my French Swiss friend Bernadette if she would like to venture over there with me, and to my delight, she accepted.

We took a picop from Pana at 11:00 in the morning over to Santa Catalina. The festival was held at the central plaza where a small lovely white church was located. The only recorded date of this church is on its bell, 1762. The festival was dedicated to Lake Atitlan's women. It was a celebration of all women (mostly indigenous) who were involved in undertakings that improved the quality of their lives. There were women from weaving and organic product cooperatives as well as social activists who helped women protect themselves from domestic violence.

Woman displaying the ware that this cooperative made and sold

Bernadette with a Guatemalan woman she has volunteered with

During the festival I wandered into the church and noticed a group of young people there. The men were shirtless which I found very disrespectful. I was about to approach them and inform them in English that it was offensive to the native people to go into churches with little clothing on, but just before I was about to address them, I overheard them speak fluent Spanish! I thought they were naive gringos but Guatemalans? Anyway, I thought better and kept my mouth shut. In any case, I found the episode odd.

Inside the church of Santa Catalina.
This platform will be carried in a holy week procession.
The woman is cleaning the church.

Bernadette and I had a regular lunch at a local restaurant on the edge of the beach. We later hiked back on the less traveled highway to Panajachel. We had had great fun that day.

View from the road between Santa Catarina and Panajachel

Antigua

2009-03-24T21:41:00.000-07:00

La Pasión

As Guatemala’s foremost colonial jewels and a declared world heritage site, there is too much to write about Antigua. I visited it for the first time (but not the last) with my daughter on March 14-15, 2009. Antigua was actually Guatemala's third capital, but due to relentless natural disasters (mudslide in 1541; earthquake in 1717), much of population abandoned Antigua after two severe tremors in 1773. The city's history is so rich and dense that I will leave it to readers to do their own research. I will only report what my daughter and I experienced during our first visit here.

When we arrived with a shuttle from Pana, we were delivered at a delightful hotel Uxlabil, which my friend and tour operator Helmuth (friend of Julie Yindra, a colleague at Greensboro College) arranged for us. What a great find (and so was the guide Helmuth organized for us the following day)! Uxlabil is a historical building with its own museum which we failed to visit. However, when Helmuth warned Lorca to watch out for the spirits that haunted the hotel, I thought it better that we did not probe into its history. Lorca was spooked enough.

The interior of Hotel Uxlabil

One of the employees

Lorca and I spent Saturday afternoon checking out shops. One in particular Nim Po't, recommended by Helmuth, was outstanding in its array of Maya woven bags, clothing, costumes as well as other quality handicrafts from Guatemala. One could not bargain in this store (like most in Antigua) but the prices were very fair.

El Arco de Santa Catalina, on the same street as Nim Po't
(this arch served as a passageway
for nuns to cross the street without being seen)
The arch from another viewpoint.
Notice the purple drapery on the balcony.
This signifies the approaching of Holy Week.

That evening we decided to go to a club which was famous for live Cuban music and salsa dancing. We first had a very refined dinner at the upscale restaurant next door to the hotel where we were also serenaded by musicians playing Mexican ranchero love songs. Then we headed for the club around 9:30. We were given an 11:30 curfew that night by the hotel's night porter, much to Lorca's dismay and her mother's relief.

It was a scene out of one of those cross-cultural romantic dance films. We were lucky enough to land a table very close to the band before the place filled up and spilled over with patrons. It was standing room only after 10:30. What was fascinating about the club was the demographics. There were mostly Guatemalan men and gringa women! The Guatemalan men were, for the most part, polished salsa dancers and the gringa women amateurs who were however very eager to have free dancing lessons. There was one triad of Guatemalan dancers, two men and a woman, who could have easily been type-casted as Latin Hollywood actors. They were beautiful, sexy, extremely suave and talented on the dance floor. The one tall very attractive Guatemalan (Antonio Banderas's look-alike) asked an equally good-looking American woman to dance with him. It became obvious that she had had a lot of experience dancing (she even did a split) and the two made a ravishing couple to goggle at. He still had the upper hand on the moves and from her body language, he was teaching her steps she didn't know. The fascinating aspect of watching them is that he would do some very erotic dance movements with her which she complied with but from her facial expression, one could tell she was embarrassed and yet thrilled by her teacher's forwardness.

Lorca had had a little experience with salsa dancing. She was asked by two Guatemalan men to dance. According to Lorca, the first dancer was terrible; the second, however, knew his stuff. He wiggled, swayed, and twirled her around at alternatively languid and frenzied paces. I was impressed with Lorca's adaptability and gracefulness. She appeared to be a natural. She told me later that she attributes this to her Spanish side of the family.

The next day we toured the sites of Antigua. Our guide impressed us with his breadth of knowledge which included a long memorized list of dates. He spoke to us in Spanish, but he could give the same tour in English: he was totally self-taught. He spent over three hours with us, guiding us through majestic churches and convents as well as gorgeous, decadent hotels and restaurants.

Risque central fountain at the Parque Central
The central plaza used to host a bustling market,
bullfights, military parades, floggings, and public hangings.

Cathedral de San Jose at Parque Central, illuminated at night

One site in particular was the famous La Merced whose facade is indeed grandiose. Again, it attests to the blending of Catholic and Maya belief systems since, if you look closely at the moulding in the front, there are sculpted corn cobs which symbolize the Maya belief that mankind came from corn. Inside, there were pre-holy week preparations. On the floor there were drawings of religious imagery made from painstakingly hand-strewn colored sawdust. Maya worshippers had also laid offerings of home-grown vegetables on the borders of these remarkable floor paintings. One is reminded of the Buddhist sand paintings which are eventually destroyed.

LaMerced

Exquisite floor painting out of colored sawdust

Close-up of sawdust floor painting

One remarkable building we visited was Las Capuchinas, the largest of the city's convents, whose ruins are some of the best preserved. The Capuchina nuns came from Madrid and their order was one of most rigid and oppressive. They were never allowed visual contact with anyone. Food was given to them through turntables in the wall and they could only speak to visitors through a grille. According to our guide, some nuns were forced to enter the convent due to their unacceptable social behavior or illicit relationships. As a consequence of their lifelong imprisonment and isolation, many became mentally ill. Our guide led us into a basement that had eerie acoustics. He told us that no one knew what this chamber was used for but there were at least four theories. One of the them was that the chamber was used for chanting. He demonstrated the acoustics of the chamber by singing a sonorous Guatemalan folk song. Lorca followed with an interpretation of "Fly Me to the Moon." The beauty and power of her voice resonated up to a group of tourist outside the chamber. When they descended, the tour guide asked Lorca if she would mind giving an encore. Her improvisation was met with a resounding applause. It was a memorable moment.

The interior of Las Capuchinas

Lorca inside the patio of Las Capuchinas

One of the trivia that our guide passed on to us is that in other to preserve its historical heritage, building codes in Antigua are very strict. If businesses and homeowners wish to paint the facades of their building, they are restricted to eight colors: variations of blue, red, yellow, and green. They are also not permitted to build extensions.

Calle de los Nazarenos, a typical street in Antigua

Antigua is indeed one of Guatemala's historical, architectural gems. I look forward to learning more about this city during visits with friends in the near future.

Santa Catarina de Jesus, former convent and later prison
Now it is being renovated into a museum.

The Black Sands of Guate's Pacific Coast

2009-03-24T20:17:00.001-07:00

(courtesy of Lorca Lechuga-Haeseler)

Although Monterrico has been touted as "the nicest place on the entire coast to spend a day or two," I was dissuaded from going there. Mike, owner of the famous Crossroads Cafe in Pana, advised me to go to the coastal town of Sipacate instead and stay at the resort Rancho Carillo. I decided to hire a private driver (un piloto privado) to drive Lorca and me down to Sipacate directly from Pana. The journey took roughly two and half hours. Our driver dropped us off at the area where the wooden lanchas taxi people over to the resort area for a mere 5 quetzales (less than a dollar) pro person. Lorca and I waited about 10 minutes until the boatman was ready to start the motor. But the motor didn't start due to lack of gasoline, so he called another boatman with his cell phone to come pick us up.

The lancha that ferries people over to Rancho Carillo

We found Rancho Carillo to be almost completely empty aside from a family of three. The surroundings were beautiful. There was a pristine beach with a surf that is supposedly "Guatemala's best" (The Rough Guide to Guatemala 246). Apparently, the waves can reach the height of six feet. The resort was also charming. We lucked out with a simple, clean bungalow which was directly on the beach. It also had an ocean-front balcony with a hammock. Lorca and I immediately changed into our bathing suits and stretched out on the black sand.

Tiled walkway at Rancho Carillo (courtesy of Lorca Lechuga-Haeseler)

Much to Lorca's disappointment, she couldn't swim far into the ocean since there is a deadly undertow which has reportedly claimed the lives of many unwary swimmers.

Lorca at the beach in front of our bungalow

We feasted on sopa de mariscos (seafood soup) which had an entire fish (head and tail) in it as well as a whole crab.

Sopa de Mariscos

We also took the lancha into the low key town of Sipacate to have dinner there. The children who were related to the boatmen accompanied us. They thoroughly enjoyed chatting with us and having their picture taken. The girl even offered to keep us company during our tour of the town but we politely rejected her offer.

The boatman's son

His niece

His nephew

On a Thursday evening in Sipacate, we were the only gringas around. The inhabitants are Ladinos; Lorca said she missed the Maya indigenous who lived in the Highlands. The morning before we left, we took a short boat tour through the mangrove coastal reserve. We were disappointed because the only birds we saw were pelicans and ducks. We probably set out too late in the morning. Though we only stayed two days and overnight, Sipacate was a welcome respite and change of scenery.

Pelicans in the mangrove reserve around Sipacate

Chichi

2009-03-24T19:46:00.000-07:00

Of course I had to go "Chichi", short for Chichicastenango, a generally quiet highland town which hosts the most famous market in Guatemala and one of the largest in Central America. The market only takes place on Thursday and Sunday. I purposely waited until my daughter Lorca came to visit me during her spring break, so I could share this adventure with her. We were not disappointed! We took a 12-passenger shuttle from Panajachel on Sunday, March 8th around 8 in the morning and arrived in Chichi around 9:30. The market was exploding with hustlers, wares, colors, and sounds. Apparently, these sellers arrive in the dead of night before market day and set up their stalls in candlelight. Though we were anxious to dive into the tipica textiles and handicrafts (my personal mission was to buy painted wood-carved animal masks), we decided that we should visit the important sites beforehand. I had read that there was a sacred site called Pascual Abaj within a 20 minute hike on the outskirts of the city. When we asked a man for directions, he cautioned us that it may not wise to wander up there ourselves and "graciously" offered his services as an official guide. After we settled on a modest fee, our guide (who turned out to be excellent) took us on a rather rigorous jaunt up into the hills to Pascual Abaj. He explained that the Sunday rituals would be taking place when we arrived. At the site there were two curanderos (shamans), a woman and man, who offered their services to anyone who had special needs or requests. They repetitively performed rituals which involved incense, liquor-pouring, and incantations in front of the Idolo, a blackened pre-Columbian sculpture. Sometimes a chicken is sacrificed, but we were saved from that spectacle. As we stood there observing the shamans, two groups of young Guatemalans came to pay their respects. I asked Lorca if she wanted to take advantage of the shaman's services and ask for good grades this semester. For some reason, she didn't take my suggestion seriously.

Pascual Abaj

The guide led us down the fairly steep path into the town and then guided us up the steps of the famous church Santo Tomás on the southeast corner of the main plaza. Like other Catholic churches I have seen, Santo Tomás was the testament to a successful blending of Catholic and Maya belief systems. The church dating back to 1540 has wooden carved figures of Jesus and other saints as well as symbols of the Maya religion such as offerings of aguardiente liquor and symbolically colored candles.

Steps leading up to Santo Tomás Church

After absorbing the majestic atmosphere and relics within the church, we said goodbye to our guide and plunged into the exhilarating chaos of the market. As a haggler, Lorca was very timid in the beginning but with time and practice, she became more emboldened at bargaining and cajoling with the sellers. (She refined this skill later on in Panajachel where she made her last-ditch purchases).

Lorca with our guide at the Chichi Market

I did complete my mission and bought six exquisite masks at a bargain price of 50 dollars. Lorca was thrilled with her purchases which included two lovely embroidered belts. We found a patio restaurant for a quick bite before heading back with the same shuttle (with different passengers no less) to Pana. Chichicastenango (named after a flower) had definitely proven itself as one of the highlights of Lorca's visit as well as a permanent "must" for future visitors.

The market at Chichicastenango

Churunel 2

2009-03-03T18:33:00.000-08:00

In a classroom with the children of Churunel 2

Today (March 3^rd) marked one of the most memorable experiences of my sojourn here in Guatemala. I am very fortunate to know Helga, my colleague at UVG, who has lived here for over ten years. She is very well connected with many interesting people and organizations here in Panajachel. One organization that she actively participates in is La Fundacíon Atitlan, which is a German foundation that gathers donations in Germany to buy school supplies for needy Guatemalan schools because 80% of the population live in poverty here and education is regarded a "leg up" out of their condition. Four years ago, the Fundacíon had a surplus of supplies since all of the schools in Panajachel were taken care of. Helga contacted an indigenous leader from the Department (province) of Sololá and asked if the Fundacíon could give these supplies to schools in his area. He told Helga that he knew of an area of Sololá, Churunel 2, which was in dire need of help. Helga and Astrid, the wife of the German consul here in Panajachel, went to the tiny hamlet and looked at the school. Since then, the school has become one of the beneficiaries of the Fundacíon. There are 140 school children and 4 teachers.

Helga invited me to come along on this visit to the school. It was a planned visit from the Fundacíon which included a group of members from Koblenz, Germany, who had arrived a couple of weeks ago. On our way to the school in Helga’s car, I spoke to two members, one was a German woman and the other Dutch. They were here in Guatemala for the first time. The conversation in the car was very amiable and we were all excited about visiting the school. When we arrived at the meeting point on top of the hill, Helga parked her car. We had gone caravan style. One of the picops which followed us was loaded with donations for the school. We climbed into another picop which lumbered down a dirt road to the school. To relieve our nervousness, we all made jokes during our descent since earlier this picop had stalled and locals had to push it to get the motor started.

Picop being loaded with donations

German visitors in the picop headed down to the school
Helga is on the far left smiling at the camera.

The scenery surrounding the village

When we arrived at the school, all of the students and teachers were gathered in the schoolyard anticipating our arrival. As our picops drove to the entrance, all of the students, teachers, parents, and local supporters began to applaud. They set off firecrackers in our honor.

Children applauding our arrival

Close-up of the children welcoming us

We were greeted heartily by the people of Churunel 2. All of the local men first came up to us and shook our hands and welcomed us. We then entered the school yard and were asked to sit in rows of chairs facing the children. Then the performance began. First, there was the national hymn which has to be one of the longest of national hymns in the world. It did appear that the children knew all of the verses, with their right hand over their heart. After that came speeches of gratitude and lovely performances from the children.

One of the teachers who acted as master of ceremony during the performance

Singing the exceptionally long national anthem

In one of the folkloric dances,
the dancer swings a pot of burning incense.

In another dance, the children threw baskets of flower petals at the visitors.

After the student performances, Josef Fuhrmann, leader of the Fundacíon in the Koblenz area of Germany, stood up and gave a very heartfelt speech which Helga translated into Spanish. You have to remember that the children and their parents here know Spanish as a second language. Their mother tongue is the Maya dialect Kacqichel. However, from the reaction from the crowd, most understood Helga's translation of Josef’s message.

Josef Fuhrman giving his speech and Helga Knapp translating

Crowd's reaction

Mothers and grandmothers were at the ceremony.
They also received gifts from the Fundacíon.

The whole village was there.

After the speech, he began to distribute gifts from the Fundacíon which consisted of school supplies: pens, backpacks, even a soccer ball for recess. Many of the gifts Josef presented were sent by donors who had been to the school the previous year. In return, students gave Josef pictures of gratitude that they have drawn especially for the occasion. It was truly a beautiful statement of humanism.

A soccer ball donated by a member who was here last year

One of the drawings from a student given to Josef
It says "Thank you for coming to my school. Welcome."

After the ceremony, we were ushered into one of the classrooms for lunch. We found out that the people of the school went into the villages to gather money to provide us a lunch which consisted of a lovely club sandwich of vegetables and boiled eggs. We all very touched by their sacrifice. The Fundacíon donated the drinks which were ironically Gatorade!

Lunch at the school

After the lunch, we were shown the new kitchen that Fundacíon had sent money to have built. Due to this organization, children here are given free lunch, so the kitchen is now there to provide it. Children filed into rows to get their “snack” which was a nutritious cup of cream of wheat. It is supplemented with additional proteins and vitamins.

After the snack, the children gathered back into the classroom.

Their classroom

Helga needed to get back to Sololá to teach her class at 12:30, so we all climbed into picops and headed back to where Helga’s car was parked. The day's encounter swept me away emotionally. I think it has to do with my lack of exposure to people who are very poor and yet genuinely grateful, sincere, and pure. Moreover, their children radiate a beauty and poignancy that I have never experienced and shall never forget.

The school children of Churunel 2

Cultural Challenges

2009-02-21T18:06:00.001-08:00

I have already written about the culture shock I suffered (and still am coping with) regarding dogs here in Guatemala, but on a more humorous side, I would like to add two more.

Bathroom culture: European and North American women, you will have to change your bathroom habits. When I first arrived in Guatemala, my American host Jeanie forgot to tell me NOT to throw bathroom tissue into the toilet. When she did remember, I looked at her aghast. Fortunately her pipes did not get clogged. The Guatemalan sanitation system does not respond well to toilet paper. Consequently, you must get into the habit (men included) of wiping yourself and throwing the soiled tissue paper into the communal waste basket. I underwent at least two weeks of toilet retraining.

Also be sure to check the bathtub for these lovely creatures before you step into it:

Chili Caballo (Chili Horse)

Food culture: Beware of the chili caballo! I went to our town market and bought five yellow peppers thinking they were sweet. I removed the seeds, diced them, and threw them into a spaghetti dish. OK, the dish was spoiled, but I could deal with that. The worst consequence was that the chili caballo had scorched my hands! I could hardly feel the palms of my hands without this very painful tingling sensation. My colleagues sympathized with me and said that every gringa who comes to Guatemala goes through the chili caballo experience. Fortunately, the pain subsided two days later.

Tecún Umán Day

2009-02-21T17:13:00.000-08:00

Girl in Tecún Umán Parade

On February 20^th, I was taking a tuk-tuk home with groceries from one of the two gringo supermarkets, Pana Super (they have the best croissants in town), when we drove into a huge traffic jam. Traffic had basically come to a dead halt due to a parade of young children dressed in traditional indigenous costumes. There were also gaudily decorated pickup trucks carrying lovely exquisitely outfitted young women seated on throne-like chairs.

One of the picop trucks carrying a reina (queen)

La Reina

I didn’t have my camera with me so I paid off the tuk-tuk driver and raced home on foot. When I returned to the center of town, the parade was still winding its way through Calle Principal (the main street). I had a great time weaving through the trails of adorned school children and tailing the reinas (queens) on the picops.

Lines of children with their teacher (left) in Panajachel

Close-up of the girls. Notice their beautifully
embroidered blouses and skirts.

The boys with their hats. They loved being photographed.

I found out later that they were celebrating the anniversary of Tecún Umán’s death. The last ruler and king of the K’iche-Maya people, Tecún Umán died courageously in a hand-to-hand combat with the Spanish Conquistador Don Pedro de Alvarado on February 20, 1524 close to Quetzaltenango (known as Xela) in the western highlands. Due to his bravery, devotion and ultimate sacrifice to his people, Tecún Umán was declared a Guatemalan national hero in 1960. In Panajachel, it has become tradition for school children from the neighboring villages to parade in indigenous Kaqchikel garb. Selected for her eloquence in the Kaqchikel dialect, good looks, and academic standing, one young woman rides on a picop as the reina of her school. Sometimes she is accompanied by ladies-in-waiting.

La Reina and her ladies-in-waiting

Cascarones

2009-02-19T17:37:00.000-08:00

Cascarones

Even before Valentine’s Day, I began to see these delightfully colored eggshells being sold at the market or on the street. They are called cascarones and they are an important part of the main Carnival celebration which falls on the Tuesday, the 24^th of February before Ash Wednesday this year. Unlike in countries such as Brazil and Germany, Carnival is not that big of a celebration in Guatemala, at least not in the Lake Atitlan area. However, tradition has it that on “sad Tuesday”, one takes a cascaron and smashes it on the head of innocent bystander. Most eggs are filled with confetti, so “no pasa nada;” however, more vicious merry-makers may sneak up on you and smash eggs filled with flour on your head. Not a pleasant experience. Consequently, I have been warned to stay aloof from youngsters on the streets with malicious grins on their faces. These cascarones are beautifully and uniquely decorated with paint or markers. They are also extremely cheap; I only paid $1.50 for my dozen. I hope to transport them back to the States without breaking them or smashing them on some fool’s head.

Boy selling them on the main street in Panajachel

El Dia del Cariño

2009-02-17T18:27:00.000-08:00

Katy, one of my students, gave me a hug and this valentine.

I was very touched.

It has become tradition at UVG-Altiplano that Valentine’s Day be an opportunity for students to perform songs, poems, and group dances in a public forum on campus. Four members of the faculty or staff are summoned to judge the contestants on the quality of their performance. At the end of the performances, the judges announce who ranks first and second in the performances. A representative from the group or the individual in the case of monologues then struts up to the stage to receive their diploma of excellence.

A competing class: They are actually my tourism students
who are performing a very modern dance act.

The judges making a very difficult decision

After the competition, representatives from each student grade level and faculty from departments were called up to the main floor. They were asked to participate in a dance competition. Fortunately, I was not coerced into performing this task (they must have read my “deer in the headlights” body language). Instead, my colleague Josanne from Trinidad volunteered to represent the Centro de Idiomas. Josanne was in her element because she loves to dance.

Josanne (left) dancing with one of the students

After the dance competition, the winners were given their certificates. (Josanne and her partner did not win but they were very good). Now came the time for the gift exchange. Prior to the event, people were given a name of student, faculty, or staff to buy a present for. The gift should not have cost more than 10 quetzals (though most people cheated because you cannot get much for 10 Qs , the equivalent of $1.25). The exchange first began as follows. One person at a time broadcast the name of their secret valentine over the microphone. After much confusion and delay (many people could not hear their name), it became obvious to the organizers that this process would take forever (there were over 300 students). It was then announced that everyone in the auditorium go find their secret valentine. Fortunately, Josanne told me who my secret valentine was: the rather heavy-set son of an English-speaking pharmacist in Pana; so I was able to spot him out of the crowds of students. My secret valentine came up to me, bearing a brace-laced grin and a coffee cup filled with chocolates. He is one of the beginning “basico students” whom I first taught when I got here.

My Secret Valentine

Josanne's Secret Valentine

After the exchange of secret valentine gifts, there were boxed lunches. There was supposed to be a disco afterward, but I decided that was not for me. I had had enough fun that day.

The Dogs of Guatemala

2009-02-15T08:02:00.000-08:00

One of the biggest cultural adjustments I have had to undergo since moving to Guatemala has to do with dogs here. My first impression was shocking. The streets are full of what appeared to me “stray dogs.” Some of them looked healthy but many looked emaciated and grossly neglected. If they weren’t foraging for anything edible, they were napping on the side of the street or in some tucked away corner. Some female dogs were ostensibly nursing puppies which were nowhere in sight. Their search for food was particularly dire.

Sleeping dog in Santiago Atitlan

I spoke to some long-time residents, ex-pats, about the plight of the canine here in Panajachel. I learned the following. Many dogs do have homes, but they are released by their owners in the morning to wander about in the streets where they can deposit their bodily waste. At night these more fortunate dogs return home to be fed and stand guard at their owner’s home. Generally, dogs are not permitted inside Guatemalans’ homes. For this reason, one can hear them bark loudly and incessantly throughout the night at the slightest sound or movement. As a light sleeper, I am still coping with this rackety phenomenon. There are- what I now call- “good dog nights” and “bad dog nights.” After a bad dog night, I wake up cranky and dog tired (sorry, but I couldn’t resist).

It is not inherent in Guatemalan culture to take dogs for walks. One only sees gringos walking adopted dogs on leashes. Richard Morgan at Los Encuentros has two black Labradors. He pays two Guatemalan youngsters from the neighborhood to take his dogs for a daily walk. The children are not enthusiastic about carrying out this task, but as Richard pointed out, “They are desperate for money.”

Street dog in Panajachel

A person deeply concerned about animal welfare is Patricia “Patti” Mort, my surrogate landlady. Patti moved to Guatemala in the 1980’s. She used to own a popular boutique Casa Alegre on Calle Santander, but she sold it and now runs a hotel on the same street. Besides her business, Patti is involved with an organization called Mayan Families which she co-founded with Sharon Smart-Poage. The mission of this non-profit organization is to “provide assistance and opportunities to the indigenous people of Guatemala, in particular in the Lake Atitlan area, through education, community programs and construction. “ One of their community programs is the Animal Welfare Program which tackles the acute problem of canine overpopulation and negligence. Patti often patrols the streets on foot for dogs in desperate need of care and if needed, she picks them up with her Mazda pickup and takes them to a veterinarian hospital where they are treated and sterilized. I briefly visited Patti at the animal hospital where she volunteers regularly. We plan to talk more about the organization and explore the possibility of organizing internships for college students. To learn more about Patti’s organization and its achievements, please go to their website: www.mayanfamilies.org

Patti Mort at the Animal Hospital

Animal hospital where Patti volunteers

A mistreated dog they rescued. The dog still lives in the streets.

V Congreso para Maestros at Proesur

2009-02-15T05:20:00.001-08:00

On the main stage: The banner introduces all of the programs at Proesur

The Centro de Idiomas at UVG's Proesur campus hosts a national conference for teachers which is focused on all areas of methodology and training (aprendizaje). The theme for this year's conference was "Eliminando Barreras Educativas" (Eliminating Educational Barriers). Over 700 participants had registered for this event. Presenters came from all over, some as far as the U.S. Bani Sandoval, director of the Centro de Idiomas, had asked me a couple of weeks ago if I would present on an aspect of teaching English as a foreign language. I agreed to give two 1 1/2 hour workshops on communicative speaking activities for beginners. The workshops were well attended. I had in both sessions roughly 25-30 English teachers who were mostly K-12 public school teachers. One teacher, however, taught English at San Carlos University in Guatemala City. She was very excited about implementing my activities due to the huge number of students in her classroom.

In my workshop, I led the participants through activities I have used teaching English and German to beginners that engaged all four skills. I purposely chose activities that did not involve technology and expensive materials since many Guatemalan teachers do not have access to these. The teachers loved the activities and thanked me profusely for sharing them.

Workshop on communicative activities at Proesur

The teachers from UVG-Altiplano and I were treated as royal guests by our colleagues at Proesur. Our conference fee was waived and we were also invited to join the group of guests whose lunch was catered. The conference ended around 3:00 and we returned to Panajachel around 6:00. It was a very rewarding experience for me to give these workshops to teachers who effusively demonstrated their eagerness to learn and their appreciation of my help.

My colleagues from Altiplano at lunch:
Helga, I, Josanne, Carrie, and Brenda

The Piñata Party

2009-02-14T15:30:00.000-08:00

Hanging up the piñata

Helga Knapp, my English teaching colleague at UVG, invited me to come to her daughter's birthday party on Sunday, February 8th. Helga's daughter, Maria Sara, was turning 10 and over 40 children from her class had been invited. There was going to be two piñatas at the party, one for the girls and the other for the boys. The party was supposed to begin at 3:00 but most people trickled in within the next hour. Most Guatemalan birthday parties are outside in the garden with chairs set up in a circle. There were balloons everywhere. Helga had prepared a special treat for Maria Sara and her guests. She had hired a professional clown who arrived shortly afterward with his two assistants (one was his son). The clown had us all in stitches with his antics. It was particularly amusing to watch how he very cleverly enticed the children to join him in the merry-making.

The second boy from the right is Helga's son, Juan Miguel

The second girl from left is Helga's youngest daughter, Olga Teresa

One of many memorable acts

Then came the time for the piñata. Maria Sara was the first of course to be blindfolded and handed the stick. As she swung the stick around, the clown's assistants purposely moved the piñata with strings, making the task of breaking it even harder. Finally, after all of the girls took a turn, one returning combatant successfully whacked the piñata, so that all of the goodies (hard candy) inside it spewed onto the ground. Shrieking gleefully, all the girls fell to the ground to grab as many candies as they could. The boys were next with their piñata.

Getting her ready for combat

Helga is standing in the background. The girl on the far right is Maria Sara.

During the final stage of the party, Maria Sara blew out the candles on the exquisitely decorated cake that her mother baked just for the occasion. Immediately afterward, the children behind her pushed her face into it! Apparently this is custom in Guatemala. Everyone was served multi-colored jello, birthday cake, and soda. The party ended around 6:00. I thanked Helga for giving me the opportunity to witness such an intimate cultural event.

Cake on her face

Helga's hired household help

"Gelatina" served by Helga's youngest, Olga Teresa

Q'omaneel in San Juan La Laguna

2009-02-14T14:04:00.000-08:00

The son of our guide at Q'omaneel

Before my Canadian friends, Zoe and Kurt and their two sons, left for Roatan, Honduras, they decided to buy a painting by Felipe Ujpan whose studio is in San Juan La Laguna. They invited me to join them. We decided that we would also visit a cooperative called Q'omaneel (Association of Traditional Midwives and Health Promoters of San Juan La Laguna). There a group of Tz'utujil Maya women grow over 20 species of medicinal plants and hand-make various products from them, such as shampoo, soap, cream, tea, aromatic candles, etc. We would never have found this cooperative, had Felipe not led us there. The guide at Q'omaneel took us on a very thorough tour of the garden, explaining all of the health benefits of each herb.

In the garden of over 20 medicinal plants

Tz'utujil Maya woman roasting seeds in the garden

He then took us into the laboratory where the women process the herbs into natural products. He pointed out that because the women were illiterate, they follow instructions in the form of drawings on the wall.

The laboratory

This cooperative takes special pride in displaying the ancient way the Maya people have used these medicinal plants to promote healing and good health. Not only does the cooperative help the women workers earn a very modest living (they make a couple of dollars a day), but it also preserves and promotes awareness and appreciation of ancient Maya customs.

My visit to Proesur, UVG's other campus

2009-02-01T10:27:00.001-08:00

La Universidad del Valle de Guatemala (UVG), a private university, was founded in 1966 (http://www.uvg.edu.gt). UVG has three external campuses. The older campus, founded in 1995, is in Santa Lucía Cotzumalguapa and it is called Proesur. Antiplano, founded in 1999, is located in the Western highlands of Guatemala. I teach at the Antiplano campus which, ironically, was a former Guatemalan military base of sordid repute. For many years, the military personnel terrorized the surrounding civilian population with arrests, torture, rape, and even death. It must be very strange for victims and survivors of those past horrendous acts to have children and grandchildren studying there now in classrooms which were formerly barracks.

After expressing a desire to visit the Proesur campus to have an idea of how their English program was structured and run, María Marta Ramos, the director of the Antiplano campus, arranged for me to accompany Tereso Joj, professor and Director of Development and Programs, who was traveling over there on Monday, January 27^th.

It was a very interesting, informative visit. Tereso Joj was a very gracious host who not only asked the driver to take the most picturesque route so I could gasp at vistas of Lake Atitlan from its western side, but held my notebook, pen, and camera very gentleman-like as I toured the campus with a delightful group of students. Tereso also shared with me some of his own personal history. His father was murdered thirty years ago due to his political activism. For this reason, four of Tereso’s siblings immigrated to the U.S. and now live in California. Tereso visits them whenever he is in the U.S. on business; otherwise, he would never see them since they refuse to ever return to Guatemala. I asked Tereso why he didn’t leave after his father was killed. He replied that he loved his country and he felt committed to stay to improve the lives of his compatriots. Tereso is an educator and social activist who has worked with government, countless social organizations, and educational initiatives. Even though his English is better than my Spanish, he spoke to me exclusively in his mother tongue much to my delight since I am eager to practice as much as possible. He very patiently listened to my flawed Spanish and offered to provide the word I couldn’t find in my very limited mental lexicon.

Spectacular view of Lake Atitlan enroute to Santa Lucía Cotzumalguapa

Having breakfast with Tereso Joj

The Proesur campus houses many programs. There is CAS, The American School of the South, which is a bilingual Pre-K to 12 grade school. Proesur‘s first program, CAS enjoys an enrollment of over 300 students. Another major program is its Technological Institute, ITEC, in which high school age students can enroll to obtain an Associate Bachelor degree in Mechatronics, Export Agricultural Products Industry as well as Electronic Industry. A group of ITEC students were assigned as my tour guides. Their English was quite good as they guided me to various buildings and explained the types of classes and facilities that were located there. They also took me out to the fields where agriculture majors can have practical experience growing profit-yielding crops, such as tomatoes, papaya, bananas, and even the flower, bird of paradise.

My student guides during a campus tour arranged by the staff member behind me

Bird of Paradise, grown in the fields on campus

There was a flurry of activity that day due to the visit of George E. Like from the U.S. Agency for International Development (USAID). From what I understood, George Like works with one of USAID’s departments, American Schools and Hospitals Abroad (ASHA). ASHA had given both UVG campuses millions of dollars to buy and set up modern virtual laboratories with teaching aids as teleconferencing and smart boards. Mr. Like had come to see how the technology was being utilized. The staff, faculty and students gave their American visitor a grand reception which included tours, presentations, student and faculty testimonials, and a lovely outdoor luncheon. During the luncheon, a group of students sang and played traditional and western music.

George E. Like from American Schools and Hospitals Abroad, USAID

Proesur students playing music at the luncheon

Because of Mr. Like’s visit, it was very little time to speak with Bani Sandoval, the administrative director of the Center of Foreign Languages. But we did get in some “shop talk” during the luncheon and afterward in his office. He asked me if I would give a 1 ½ hour workshop to Guatemalan English teachers at their annual “Congreso” on February 11^th. They were desperate for more presenters since they expected at least the same number attendees they had last year, around 600. Though the time to plan a workshop was short (just two weeks), I was happy to be a part of their program. Bani and I decided that I could focus the workshop on communicative activities for beginners, a topic of great interest and practical use for English teachers from all educational domains.

Ing. Bani Sadoval, Director of the Centro de Idiomas at Proesur

It was a very productive, enlightening, and truly memorable visit. I am looking forward to returning there on February 11^th with my colleagues from the Antiplano campus who will also be attending the Congreso to get ideas for the one the Antiplano English department is expected to launch sometime in March or April.

San Juan La Laguna

2009-01-25T16:39:00.000-08:00

Zac at the helm of a speedboat to San Pedro
where we catch a ride to San Juan La Laguna

I befriended a delightful family from Calgary, Canada who are also staying at Los Encuentros until the end of the month. Kurt works as an accountant and Zoë home-schools their two sons: Nolan (8) and Zac (6). The family decided to take six months off and travel to Central America to learn Spanish and different Latin-American cultures while still home-schooling their children. They spent a month in El Salvador, two months in Nicaragua, and are now in Guatemala, and in February they will move on to Roatan, Honduras. Zoë and Kurt love Guatemala and are seriously considering returning there in September 2009 with their sons to spend a year. They are currently checking out rental places before they depart for Honduras.

Zoë and Kurt graciously invited me to tag along with them on an excursion to San Juan La Laguna, another charming village on Lake Atitlán. It has a population of 8,000 inhabitants who are exclusively indigenous. Richard Morgan, our B & B host, knows well-known Mayan artists who are based there. One artist is Felipe Ujpan whose works have been exhibited in the U.S. He belongs to a group of indigenous artists who have been characterized “Primitivist” oil painters. On our behalf, Richard called Felipe and told him we were coming to San Juan and asked if he could meet us at the drop-off area and take us to his studio. Felipe was most happy to comply.

We took a boat to San Pedro and from there took a picop to San Juan for 3 Quetzales (less than 50 cents).

On our way from San Pedro to San Juan

I called Felipe on my cell phone and he came to greet us and accompany us to his studio that is near town center. We were enamored with Felipe’s exquisite work which focused primarily on Mayan traditions. Felipe also showed us a few paintings from a protégé of his, Diego Luis. I bought one of Felipe’s paintings for a modest 130 dollars (he told me he had spent an entire month on it) and the Canadian couple bought an impressive painting from his protégé for 70 dollars. We all left the studio elated and excited. We felt we were now “collectors” of artwork that we would never be able to afford in our countries.

Felipe Ujpan in the doorway to his studio in San Juan

Felipe holding the painting I bought

I fell in love with the village of San Juan La Laguna. Its streets are clean and obviously well-maintained by its proud citizens. There is very little traffic. Aside from an advertised beach called Las Cristalinas, San Juan is mostly ignored in tourism books. There are many impressive grassroots cooperatives. One of them is COOP LEMA, a weaver’s cooperative whose members consist of only women from the village. They dye their wool with local natural plant materials and sell them directly to visitors. One can visit the weavers as they demonstrate their century-old craft.

Women from the COOP LEMA demonstrating their art

The children in Guatemala are so charming and endearing. They come up to you and ask you if you want to take a picture of them. As we strolled through the narrow streets of San Juan, these children called out to us.

Best friends

More beautiful children of San Juan

San Juan La Laguna teems of art: Here is one of the many street murals painted by a local artist. These murals can viewed at every street corner.

Boat Tour of Lake Atitlán

2009-01-24T08:13:00.000-08:00

On Friday, January 9th, I wasn’t needed at the university, so I decided to take a tour of three villages on Lake Atitlán to get to know my environment better. There are thirteen villages around Lake Atitlán. Every village attests to the strength and diversity of Maya culture. The three villages on this particular boat tour were San Pedro La Laguna, Santiago Atitlán, and San Antonio Palopo. Santiago Atitlán and San Antonio Palopo are still intensely traditional. The indigenous inhabitants still wear beautiful trajes unique to their village.

San Pedro La Laguna, on the other hand, much like Panajachel, has been infiltrated by western bohemians. However, the indigenous people and the “stoners” appear to tolerate one another. One big attraction for westerners to flock to San Pedro La Laguna is the famous nearby volcano San Pedro which can be climbed by ambitious hikers in a day. The boat tour to the three villages costs only 90 Quetzales (around 11 dollars) and it lasts seven hours. It was a beautiful day, very sunny and in the low 80’s, typical weather for January. Here are some pictures taken in San Pedro La Laguna, our first stop.

San Pedro La Laguna: 98% of its 10,000 inhabitants are Tz'utujil

Girl selling fresh mango. The mango is crunchy
with a sprinkle of lime, salt, and hot spice.

Precious cargo- picops are a common means of public transportation

One of the many artesian shops in San Pedro

Cafe advertising Guatemalan coffee-producing areas

Una pedrana

Street hawker on tour boat

Santiago Atitlán is the largest of the communities around the lake with a population of over 32,000, 95% of which are indigenous Tz’utujils. Traditionally, it is fishing and farming town; it is also known for the manufacture of cayucos, wooden canoes. Directly from the dock, the main street leads visitors up to the main square where there is a vibrant, very lively market, both indoor and outdoor. Street hawkers swoop down on the gringos as they stroll by the weaving shops and art galleries.

Santiago Atitlán is also known for its brave stance against military forces in the 1980’s and later on in the 1990’s. Because of their refusal to adhere to military rule in the 1980’s, the government accused inhabitants of cooperating with ORPA guerrillas and began to terrorize them into submission. Consequently, 300 hundred villagers were murdered over an 11-year period and countless others arrested and tortured. There were other incidents in which the people of Santiago Atitlán courageously fought against violent, oppressive acts from police and military. In one incident, they refused to sell food to new police recruits or let them use public toilets for one month.

Here are some glimpes of Santiago Atitlán:

Santiago Atitlán

On Main Street in Santiago Atitlán

Friday Market

Man passing by

Una Atiteca

The famous cayucos of Santiago Atitlán

When you arrive at the port of Santiago Atitlán, young Atitecos will ask you if you want to go see Maximón. Maximón or San Simón is “a mischievous, evil saint, a powerful figure who can impregnate women, confront Christ, cure illnesses and bring all sorts of misfortune to his enemies. He is said to be combination of Judas Iscariot, the conquistador Pedro de Alvarado and various Maya deities” (Insight Guides to Guatemala, Belize, and the Yucatan 123). The pagan-Maya cult of Maximón is widespread through the highlands of Guatemala. One of his best known chapels is in Santiago Atitlán. The statue of Maximón actually moves from house to house except during Easter week (Semana Santa). Then he is placed on the steps leading up to a cross which stands in a square facing an imposing Catholic church. Since his whereabouts other times of the year are only known to the natives, we paid a young boy 10 quetzales ($1.25) to take us to his shrine to pay our respects. Maximón is my kind of deity. He is a total hedonist; he is a chain smoker and enjoys his aguardiente liquor. When we arrived to Maximón’s current domicile, we had to pay 2 quetzales to enter and another 10 to take photographs. While we were there, there was a villager with a glass of liquor in his hand, praying and chanting aloud very emotionally, as if in a trance, in front of Maximón. Maximón, decked out in a broad-rimmed hat and draped in scarves, sat between two men, smoking a cigarette. His keeper to the left would occasionally flick Maximón’s cigarette ash into an ashtray. Below is a photograph I took of this fascinating figure as well as the Catholic church which houses beautifully carved figures.

The Maximón Shrine in Santiago Atitlán

Catholic Church: The cross is where Maximón smokes during Easter.

Three worshipers coming out of the church

Beautifully carved wooden figures lined against the walls of the church

Close-up on another figure in the Catholic church in Santiago Atitlán

Lake Atitlán or Lago de Atitlán has been praised for centuries by travelers as a breathtaking natural wonder. Even Aldous Huxley called Atitlán the most beautiful lake in the world. According to his Beyond the Mexique Bay (1934), Huxley writes “…Atitlan is [Lake] Como [in Northern Italy] with the additional embellishments of several immense volcanoes. It is really too much a good thing.” The lake is about 12 miles long and 7 ½ miles wide but from an aerial view, it has an irregular shape due to the many bays and inlets. During the morning, the lake is generally calm but the xocomil (the north wind) picks up in the afternoon, making boat rides choppy. According to Mayan legend, the presence of the north wind indicates that the lake has discarded the body and claimed the soul of someone who has drowned. The health of the lake is constantly tested by recent population expansion (over 100,000 people live around the lake) as well as the sequential destruction of natural environment (such as the sea grass that acts as a natural cleanser). Here are some attempts to capture this lake's magnificence.

View of the lake from Santiago Atitlán

San Pedro, one of the three dormant volcanos

Toliman and Atitlán Volcanoes

Water reed called tul which detoxifies lake

It is the end of the boat tour and a perfect day.

University of Valle of Guatemala- Altiplano (Solola Campus)

2009-01-21T19:51:00.000-08:00

Students arriving for their first day of class at the University of Valle of Guatemala

I was awarded the Fulbright scholarship to help train English teachers and generally lend support to the director of the developing English language program at the University of Valle of Guatemala at their Solala campus (http://www.altiplano.uvg.edu.gt/). When I arrived in Panajachel, I tried to get in touch with the director of the English department, Franziska Zenhaeusern, which whom I corresponded last fall. I soon learned that she had gone to the U.S. for Christmas vacation and would not be returning.

Karin Evertz, Interim Director, waiting to give me ride to the university

One of the teachers, Karin Evertz, an American who has lived all her life in Guatemala, agreed to serve as interim director (albeit no previous administrative experience), so Karin is undergoing a tremendous learning curve. During the week of orientation (January 5-8), Karin, the other two English teachers, and I underwent “virtual orientation activities” with Franziska through Skype. The third English teacher participated in the orientation through Skype from El Salvador where she was on vacation. A unique experience indeed! (By the way, I am a Skype convert. If you are abroad or you have a family member or friend abroad, you should download Skype as your means of communication. It’s completely free and very easy to maneuver).

My English-teaching colleagues: Helga from Germany and Josanne from Trinidad

The first day of class was January 12th which was mostly composed of campus orientation. In the morning, there was a general assembly where all of the professors assembled in front of the students and introduced themselves. I did so also. Speaking in my stumbling Spanish, I told them that I was happy to be there to teach them English for six months and that this was the first time I was in Guatemala.

UVG Professors introduce themselves to students during orientation.

Because of the unexpected shortage of teachers, I am currently teaching three classes until they hire a new teacher at the end of January. UVG-Antiplano’s English program mostly caters to high school students. My first class is an advanced level of Basicos aged 14; my second class is an advanced level of Segundo Bachillerato consisting of 16 year olds and my last class is the higher level of college bound students who are specializing in the tourism business.

On January 20th, the day of Obama’s inauguration, we took our students to the “aula virtual” to watch the ceremony. The middle school students had a hard time engaging with the program due to their limited English skills, but they applauded anyway at certain key moments.

Watching (or not watching) Obama's Inauguration

Lunch at the Universidad del Valle of Guatemala at their Antiplano campus is something to look forward to. It is always a warm meal and lunch includes a vegetable, meat or fish, and always mashed avocado and tortillas as well as a class of fresh pressed juice or chata. The head cook is an impressive woman. Her name is Doña Tina. She has a kind heart, no matter how besieged she and her crew are with lines of clamoring students and teachers begging for a meal before their very short lunch break is over. Lunch at the university is a deal! It only costs 13 Quetzales (less than two dollars).

Doña Tina, head cook at the UVG cafeteria
Chicken is today's almuerzo
Cafeteria women making fresh tortillas from scratch
Always smiling, head cashier and drink dispenser

Panajachel, my new home

2009-01-20T19:01:00.001-08:00

View from the shore of Panajachel

Panajachel , or “Pana” as it is called by most of its inhabitants, is Kaquchikel for “place of the Matsanos.” The Matasona is a fruit tree native to Lake Atitlan, which is supposed to have healing powers for diarrhea, fever, burns, and even heart disease. The town has roughly 11,000 inhabitants. Panajachel is indeed a multicultural town. Matter-of-fact, it has been dubbed Gringotenango for the heavy tourist traffic and many restaurants and hotels run by Westerners. Indigenous, Ladinos (descendants of Spanish conquistadors), ex-pats who came here as early as the 1960’s, missionaries, and tourists who are mostly North American and European all live here and co-exist peacefully. In contrast to the many small towns around Lake Atitlan, Panajachel has a marked international flavor, but it is still in many ways a Maya community. It is not an architecturally aesthetic town, probably due to its rapid commercial development. But it is the launch pad for anyone eager to take a boat to the 13 indigenous villages located around the lake and it offers many modern conveniences in its hotels, such as hot water and internet.

I first stayed in a hotel called “El Chaparrel” located on Calle Santander, the main drag, for only 20 dollars a night with wireless internet access. I then thought I had found the place I could rent until the end of my stay June 17^th, but the packs of stray dogs that congregated in an open field to one side of the apartment and then commenced to give a midnight concert that lasted all night and the rooster that began crowing at 4:00 AM on the other side of apartment made my long-term rental impossible. I was out of there in two days, suffering from profound sleep deficit.

Calle Santander, the main drag in Pana. Notice the tuk-tuk in the middle of the road. These little moto-taxis are ubiquitous in Guatemala. They are actually produced in Thailand.
It only costs 5 Quetzales (75 cents) to take one to any location in town.

The main street in Panajachel.
They began digging it up with no end in sight which caused a street protest.

I moved into a bed and breakfast place called Los Encuentros which is run by renown author and Latin American researcher Richard Morgan Szybist. He has written three books, two of which are displayed in all bookstores in Guatemala: “The Lake Atitlan Reference Guide” and “Fables & Other Mayan Tales of Atitlan.” For more on Richard Morgan and his interesting work in Guatemala, please click on: http://www.adventurestudy.com/

Richard Morgan Szybist and I at Los Encuentros

Los Encuentros, my home for my first month in Panajachel

Here I will stay until I move into a house at the end of January. His bed and breakfast only consists of five rooms. However, he is in the process of building bigger accommodations. Los Encuentos is a delightful place to stay with an impressive herbal garden in its center. The biggest plus, however, is Richard who is happy to converse with his guests and tell them ANYTHING about Guatemala and his own extraordinary life adventures. Breakfast (Richard makes the best coffee in Pana) is included as well as a hot tub and sauna. The only setback is a dog that persistently barks close by the vicinity throughout the night. Dogs in Guatemala are a whole chapter in itself, which I will comment on in another entry.

German restaurant in Panajachel with German Consulate next to it

Panajachel boat landing

Enroute to Panajachel

2009-01-20T06:34:00.000-08:00

Enroute to Panajachel, we stopped at Burger King to grab some “hamburguesas.” Helmuth apologetically asked if I didn’t mind grabbing lunch there. The alternative would be to dine in a local restaurant which could take a couple of hours and since we got a late start, we would save time through the drive-through at Burger King. Of course I didn’t object but I found it ironic that I would be eating at Burger King, a place I never go to in the States. Descending from the mountainous area down into Lake Attilan, we stopped at a scenic area. Here is a photograph of Panajachel from the top of mountain, my first glimpse of the town that would be my home for six months.

Panajachel is to the left.

Julie Yindra's friend Helmuth

2009-01-20T06:10:00.000-08:00

After Jeanie and I returned to Guatemala City, I called Julie Yindra’s friend Helmuth, whom she knows through her international work with spina bifida. Helmuth was expecting my call, thanks to Julie’s previous emails to him about my stay in Guatemala. He told me that he was going to Panajachel with his girlfriend and his “mother-in-law” and generously offered me a ride there. We forgot to talk about how much baggage I had with me. Minor detail! Helmuth is tour operator in Antigua, a beautiful city, which is about an hour’s drive from Guatemala City. On Saturday, Jeanie drove me to Antigua to meet up with Helmuth. His girlfriend has a Kia compact car that accommodated all but one very big suitcase of mine. Helmuth, a man of many connections, called one of his employees to ask if he could drive to Panajachel with my suitcase. Panajachel was a three hour drive from Antigua and the service would cost me 10.00 dollars. Of course I was delighted.

Helmuth with his girlfriend Claudia and Claudia's mother

Dec. 30, 2008-Jan. 2, 2009: Copan, Honduras

2009-01-19T10:54:00.000-08:00

Close-up of a Red Macaw at the Macaw Mountain Bird Park

Jeanie suggested that we spend a couple of days (which included the New Year) in Copan, Honduras, the site of the third most famous Mayan ruins in Central America. It was too late to catch a shuttle (shuttles are basically buses between two destinations, extremely affordable throughout Central America). Jeanie has a Chevy Blazer which she bought from a American teacher who returned to teach in New York City. Consequently, we packed light and disembarked on a journey to Copan Ruinas from Guatemala City. The drive was about four hours. Copan Ruinas is Honduras’s best-known archaeological site. It was even dubbed “Athens of Central America.” All of its treasures have yet to be discovered. Interestingly, Japan formed an alliance with the Honduran government in 2001 to send their own archaeologists there to continue excavating on the site.

The town where the ruins are located outside of is also named Copan Ruinas. It is a quaint town with cobblestone roads and a main plaza called Parque Central. We found a hotel close to the Parque Central for 30 dollars a night which included breakfast. The room was rather claustrophobic but we survived. We went to the hot spot in town, Via Via, which we found to be overrated by The Lonely Planet. The New Year’s Eve buffet was a hodge-podge of pseudo gourmet European dishes and the band played 70’s, 80’s, and 90’s British and American oldies. We never made it to midnight, but we could hear the constant machine-gun explosions of fireworks outside the hotel way into the night.

Copan Ruinas has two eco-touristic reserves, which we took delight in visiting: the Macaw Mountain Bird Park and Nature Reserve (Parque de Aves y Reserva Natural) and the Enchanted Wings Butterfly Park. The mission of the Macaw Mountain Bird Park is to rescue birds native to Honduras, such as macaws, toucans, and parrots. Many of the birds have been rescued from sites where they were captured and sold by poachers. All of the birds are cared for in very large humane cages in which they have ample space to fly around.

Another highlight for me in this charming town was Las Tejitas, a local restaurant we stumbled upon where looking for a place for lunch. The “plato typico” of Honduras consists of meat, rice, beans, cheese, plantains. I ordered one of the restaurant’s typical dishes which consisted of chicken seasoned in “flower water.” Jeanie ordered a vegetable soup which she later declared was one of the most delicious soups she has ever eaten. What I have learned about eating in Central America is that meals are served 45 minutes to an hour since they are literally cooked from scratch. If you order a dish, it is never pre-made. Only at the request of the customer does the cook begin putting it together. In the meantime, you sip on your drink (in this case a cervesa), absorb the atmosphere and fairly loud music, and talk- actually shout- to your companion. I find this custom in Central American restaurants delightful since you really get into the dining experience. No hurry here and the food is worth the wait.

Lush Honduran Countryside

One of the stunning stellae at the Mayan Copan Ruins

Tropical Plant at Enchanted Wings Butterfly Park

Butterfly at the Enchanted Wings Butterfly Park

December 30, 2008: El Cerrito, Guatemala

2009-01-17T17:19:00.000-08:00

December 30, 2008: El Cerrito, Guatemala

My friend Jeanie has a colleague Joanna, an American from Denver, who is married to Jorge, a Guatemalan who grew up in El Cerrito, a small rural village, a 30 minute drive from Guatemala City. Joanna invited us to come spend the day with them. Jorge and Joanna moved back to Jorge’s village a year and half ago with their two lovely daughters Tanya and Audrey. They live in a modest village house which was built for them by Jorge’s family after they got married. Joanna met Jorge twenty years ago when she was working in Guatemala with the Peace Corps. She currently works with Jeanie at the Colegio Maya American School in Guatemala City where she teaches first grade. Her two daughters, aged 13 and 15, also go to school there. Jorge, the third oldest of a family of 12 children, grew up on a coffee farm in El Cerrito. He is a bona fide naturalist. As we hiked through the hills overlooking El Cerrito, Jorge was able to name all types of vegetation and relate exquisite details about their unique qualities. Here are some pictures I took during our excursion up the dirt roads of the El Cerrito countryside and our final descent into the village.

Off on our excursion with Jorge’s truck to view his property up into the hills

The El Cerrito Countryside

Subtropical Vegetation

A gigantic bamboo grove

Banana tree stalks

Banana tree leaf

Coffee plant-Guatemala’s number one agricultural export product
Weighing and reloading 150 lb. bags of coffee onto a truck headed for wholesalers

End of the excursion- Adios!