lunes, 25 de mayo de 2009

Inauguration of Educational Center in Tzununa

For me, there isn’t much to do in Panajachel at night except to eat out at one of the many touristy restaurants whose menus range from typical Guatemalan dishes ($) to French gourmet ($$). There is however a restaurant called Solomon’s Porch that promotes itself as a cultural center. The owners organize a monthly program of live music, movies, and “Guatemala Lecture Series.” Once a month, local politicians, social activists, and retired academics are invited to give a talk with is then followed by a discussion. The two talks I have gone to were in English and the audience was 99% gringos (the remaining 1% were Guatemalan restaurant workers).

On Thursday, May 14th I went to a talk entitled “Thoughts about Resignation on 2012: Guatemalan Perspectives” given by anthropologist and author Robert Hinshaw who has lived and done research in Guatemala since 1963 on change and continuity in Maya belief patterns. His current interest is climate change and its impact on Maya culture. This was the focus of his talk and an essay he wrote entitled “A Manifest of Resignation.” (For a copy of the essay, contact Robert Hinshaw at robhinshaw@msn.com.) At the end of the discussion, he invited the audience to an inauguration ceremony in Tzununa, one of the poorer, more isolated villages on the Lake. He explained that he and his wife had donated a piece of their property to an organization “Los Amigos de Santa Cruz” so that they could build an educational center for women and children from the village. I decided that that this was an opportunity I would not pass up and asked my friend Bernadette if she wanted to come with me.

From the shores to Tzununa (Volcano San Pedro to the left)

The following week on Wednesday, May 20th, we took a boat over to Tzununa, “hummingbird of the water” in Kaqchikel. Due to its remoteness, inhabitants have been very shy toward foreigners; however, since the roadways have improved, more outsiders are coming in and buying up land to built vacation homes. The inhabitants produce oranges and lemons as their major crops. The trajes (traditional dress) the women wear are stunningly beautiful; their headdress is equally eye-catching.

Women waiting for the Inauguration to begin

Woman wearing a traditional huipil (blouse)

We arrived at the location of the inauguration at 9:00, the time it was supposed to begin, but of course, in Guatemala, everything begins much later. As we waited, I feasted my eyes on the gorgeously clad women trailing in with their children. The facial features of Maya women are striking; they have smooth coffee-colored complexions, pronounced cheekbones, and straight, refined noses.

When the group from Santa Cruz (two towns down on the Lake) arrived an hour later, the ceremony began. People who stood up to give their thanks spoke in Spanish to the foreign visitors and Kaqchikel to the locals. They expressed their gratitude to Robert Hinshaw for his donation of land as well as the founders and current members of Amigos de Santa Cruz who funded the project.

Inauguration Celebration

According to their website, Los Amigos was founded in 1998 by a group of expatriates living in Santa Cruz who, along with local community leaders, sought to empower women and children through education at the primary and secondary level. Public school in Guatemala costs money- not much but enough to prevent poor families from sending all of their children to school. If one child can go, it is the oldest boy. For this reason, very few women are literate and most young women have no future other than having and taking care of children. For this reason, the new educational center is focused on the education of women with regard to literacy, hygiene, nutrition, and job training. For more information about this organization and its achievements, go to: http://www.amigosdesantacruz.org/Amigos_de_Santa_Cruz/HOME.html

After the testimonials, Robert Hinshaw cut the ribbon symbolizing the official opening of the center. People lined up to sign the guestbook. After that, the women sat under the pavilion and had their first class on nutrition. Plates of fresh tamales were passed out at the end of the lesson.

Robert Hinshaw cutting the ribbon

The Guestbook

Attending their first class on nutrition

It was a very beautiful, touching event. In a country where there are rampant poverty, brutality, and tremendous disparity, events as these do provide glimmers of hope and possibility of change. For me, they are also a testament to the goodness of the human spirit which is so often lost or simply imperceptible.

On their way home

domingo, 10 de mayo de 2009

Quetzaltenango (Xela)

Friends of mine invited me to drive to Quetzaltenango, the second most populated city in Guatemala located in the same named department. Quetzaltenango (Place of many Quetzals) got its name from the Spaniard Pedro de Alvarado after he defeated the great Quiché warrior Tecún Uman and destroyed the city around 1524. Before then, the town was named Xelajú which is Quiché for "under the ten," which presumably refers to the peaks surrounding the town. Locals never fully accepted the name imposed by the conquistadors and to this day always refer to the city by its Quiché name, calling it Xela for short (pronounced Shey-la).

We lucked out with the weather since it is now rainy season and most afternoons usher in dark clouds and heavy downpours. Furthermore, Xela is located in the mountains and known for its bitter cold climate, especially in the mornings. However, after a heavy rainstorm that evening, we awoke to a town illuminated by clear blue sky and radiant sunshine. After breakfast we took a stroll through the tranquil streets of the old part of town toward the stunning Parque Centroamérica. The main plaza has been touted as one of the most beautiful in Central America. It is a tribute to neo-classicist architecture dating to the city's rebuilding after the disastrous 1902 earthquake. On both ends, there is a line of lonely detached Greek columns which now function as street lamps.

Statue of former President Barrios Amongst the Greek Columns

Parque Centroamérica in Xela

Another statue at the Parque

Across from the Parque is the magnificent Pasaje Enriquez, a renovated arcade of bars, cybercafés, and restaurants, and now Xela's hottest spot. On the opposite side of the park is the Catedral del Espiritu Santo.

Pasaje Enriquez

Inside the Pasaje Enriquez

Inside the Catedral del Espiritu Santo

Xela surprised and delighted me with its clean streets and charming eclectic architecture. My friends also introduced me to their favorite restaurants and cafés whose interior decoration floored me with its opulence and originality.

The Facade of a Former Movie Theatre

Inside Café Bavaria

There is a lot of culture in Xela due to the high concentration of universities, private colleges, and overabundance of top-notch language schools. Matter-of-fact, my friend Bernadette, who is French Swiss, stopped by a recommended school, Proyecto Linguistico Quetzalteco de Espanol, and registered for a week of 5 hours of daily private instruction and a home-stay (which includes three meals a day) for only 200 dollars. The school also organizes activities for students to learn about current cultural and socio-political issues facing the country.

Bernadette Contemplating an Exhibition of Chair Designs
at the School of Architecture

A Chair Design called Las Bailarinas

Poster Commemorating the Anniversary of Che's Death
Inside the Proyecto Language School:
Che is still very much revered in Guatemala
and one can see his image everywhere.

We finished off our Xela excursion with a trek to the natural spring spa Fuentes Georginas, whose hot water is fueled by the Volcano Pico Zunil. There were plenty of locals there despite the shroud of heavy fog. The cleanliness of facility left a lot to be desired; nevertheless, while we soaked in the steaming hot springs surrounded by a very colorful odd mixture of half-clad patrons, I laughingly remarked to my friends that I felt as if I could be an extra in a Fellini movie.

On our way back through Xela toward Panajachel, we stopped at one of many vegetable stands along the highway. The land in the department of Quetzaltenango is very rich due to volcanic ash and much of the produce is transported to markets as far away as those in El Salvador.

One of the Many Vegetable Stands
Along the Interamericana Highway

Cebollas

Boy carrying heavy sack of produce:
Child labor is ubiquitous in Guatemala.